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If your well water pressure has dropped, or you’ve got no water at all, the cause is usually one of a handful of things: a dry well, a power or pump problem, a failing pressure tank, or a clog somewhere in the system. This guide walks through both situations, no water and reduced pressure, so you can find the cause and the fix for your specific problem.
If nothing is coming out of your faucets, not even a trickle, that’s a different problem than low pressure, and it usually points to one of these:
The well itself may be dry or too low to draw from. This is more common in late summer or during drought, when the water table drops below your pump’s intake.
The pump isn’t getting power. Check the breaker first. A tripped breaker or blown fuse is one of the most common, and easiest to fix, reasons a well pump stops delivering water entirely.
The pump is running but not pumping. If you can hear the pump cycle on but still get no water, it may have lost its prime, or the check valve may have failed, letting water drain back down the well between cycles.
The pressure switch isn’t engaging at all. This is a more severe version of the pressure switch issue covered in the checklist below. If it’s stuck in the “off” position, the pump won’t turn on even when the tank is empty.
If you’re getting no water at all, work through these before moving to the pressure-specific troubleshooting below.
If you do have water, just not enough of it, work through this list. Each of these is a common cause of reduced pressure, and most are simple to check yourself before calling a professional.
Want a printable version to keep on hand? Download our free troubleshooting checklist below.
Water pressure and flow rate are related, but they’re not the same thing, and mixing them up is one of the most common reasons homeowners misdiagnose a pressure problem.
Water pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (PSI). In well systems, pressure is maintained by a submersible pump and a pressure tank with an air bladder. Most homes run best with 40–60 PSI. Too low, and you’ll get weak flow, especially in multi-bathroom homes. Too high (above 80 PSI), and plumbing code requires a pressure reducing valve. You can check your system’s PSI using the pressure gauge near your pressure tank. Standard systems cycle between a cut-in and cut-out setting — commonly 30/50 or 40/60 — while constant pressure systems aim to hold steady at one setting.
Flow rate is measured in gallons per minute (GPM). A common residential well pump might deliver anywhere from 5 to 20 gallons per minute. You could have great water pressure from the well but a terrible flow rate, and reduced pressure in the home as a result. Most pipes in traditional homes are ½”, ¾”, or 1″ in diameter. Say you had 60 or 70 PSI, all ½” piping, and 3 bathrooms running at once, or a large spa-type bathtub filling at 15 gallons per minute. Because of that ½” piping, you might experience a low flow rate even with 70 PSI to start, since the flow rate needed requires a larger diameter pipe.
If your flow rate seems low, it’s worth measuring it directly rather than guessing. All you need is a 5-gallon bucket and a timer, no special tools required. See our full guide on how to calculate your well pump’s GPM for the step-by-step method and formula, or use our flow rate calculator to do the math for you.
(Learn more about troubleshooting well water systems.)
If your pressure tank is in good shape but your water remains weak, our 0.75 HP Stainless Steel Booster Pump could be the answer. It delivers reliable, high-pressure water throughout your home and is built to withstand corrosive well environments. It installs downstream from the tank and works with existing systems, no need for a full replacement.
The first step is to check with and follow the water treatment manufacturer’s recommendations. They will often tell you the maximum flow rate in gallons per minute.
Another point is to avoid using a filter or softener that will reduce the pipe’s size. So, if you have a large home or need to fill a swimming pool or commercial application, you generally don’t want to put a filter with a ¾” pipe size on plumbing that uses 1″ or, say, 1-¼” piping.
You want to use a system that can filter and treat your water without restricting your flow rate and reducing water pressure.
Filter media and softener resins vary in their service flow rate. One common way to size filters and softeners is based on the square footage of the tank’s top surface area. For example, a filter tank that is 14″ in diameter has a top filter media surface area of 1.07 square feet.
If you select a filter media that can work well at 5 gallons per minute per square foot and have a 1 square foot filter, you could filter well at 5 GPM.
Service flow rate is the flow rate if you filter for hours at a time. However, for homes, most filter media can filter at 2 to 3 times the service flow rate for a short time (the Peak Flow Rate or Maximum Flow Rate) and still perform well.
The most common causes are a dry or low well (especially in late summer or drought), a tripped breaker cutting power to the pump, a pump that’s lost its prime, or a check valve that’s failed and letting water drain back down the well. Work through the “No Water At All” section above to narrow it down.
This usually means the pump has lost its prime, the check valve has failed, or the well itself has dropped below the pump’s intake level. A pump that runs constantly without building pressure is also a sign the pressure switch isn’t sensing the tank correctly.
A sudden loss of water is more often mechanical than a dry well, a tripped breaker, a failed check valve, or a pressure switch stuck in the off position are the most common causes. A well that’s actually run dry tends to show gradually reduced flow first rather than stopping all at once, though this can happen quickly during a drought.
Signs include water that sputters or runs cloudy with sediment before stopping, a pump that runs longer than usual to refill the tank, or pressure that drops off gradually over days or weeks rather than all at once. A well contractor can measure your static water level to confirm.
No water means nothing is coming out of your faucets at all, which points to a power, pump, or well-level issue. Low pressure means water is flowing, just weaker than expected, which points to causes like a waterlogged pressure tank, a clogged filter, or undersized piping. The checklist above covers the low-pressure causes specifically.
Start with the pressure gauge on your tank; if it’s outside the normal 40–60 PSI range, check the pressure switch and tank first. From there, work through clogged pipes, worn fixtures, and filter or softener issues using the checklist above. A booster pump can help if the tank and switch are functioning correctly but pressure is still weak.
Related guides from our Learning Center:
Outside resources on well water and water quality:
See how we make clean water simple, with proven systems, easy installation, and a 90-day guarantee. Whether your well or city water smells off or leaves stubborn stains, you don’t have to face it alone. The same goes if it’s damaging your appliances.
Article last updated July 31, 2026 by Gerry Bulfin.
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