I think I spent more time planning the install than I actually did doing the work, as I had to relocate the existing water softener, and since the pressure tank was so close to the wall I had little room to cut and work the existing plumbing. I was able to use the existing PEX pipe from the pressure tank into a braided line into the neutralizer; I wanted to keep it non-metallic as much as possible, so that connection is PEX to braided line (PVC core) to the 1″ inlet on the neutralizer. (The PEX piece needs to be shortened a bit, but in the interests of getting water back I left it for now.)
Output from the neutralizer goes through a new ball valve into a T; one leg of the T feeds the cold water line that had been the input to the water softener, and which provides un-softened water to the kitchen sink for drinking/cooking, and also to the outside spigots. I put a boiler drain valve where the PEX from the tank used to feed the house – hated to have a T there with a cap on one port! (pictures of that side of the pressure tank didn't come out all that well).
The other leg of the T from the neutralizer/ball valve feeds into the water softener. The original pipe that was fed from the output of the softener needed to be extended as well. Due to the lack of room to sweat the new plumbing into the existing lines where the water softener was originally plumbed meant that I had to make a leap of faith and use the SharkBite connectors, which seem to be working.
Long note, but I'm happy with the product, and the pH of my water went from 6.4 prior to the install to 7.4 now, as measured at the kitchen sink (direct output from the neutralizer).
Thanks again for your prompt service!